27-Year-Old Man New England Prison Where The Man Hanged Himself Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

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Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

Looking back at the history of hats and headgear, some obscure and unusual words surface. Having recently finished reading The Professor and the Madman (Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) on the making of the Oxford English Dictionary, I thought it might be interesting to explore the definitions and etymology of some of these ancient terms, most of which have all but from modern use disappeared. [I’ll breakup this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]

To qualify for inclusion below, the word must appear as a red squiggle in Microsoft Word’s Spell Check tool. So here it is:

Ferronier

[Fr. ferronnière, a frontlet; a coronet worn on the forehead: after Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait La Belle Ferronnière.]

(See citation in 1960.)

1840 Thackeray in Fraser’s Magazine. June 681/2 Sisters…wearing pink scarves…wearing brass hoops…rated as very charming. 1908 HC SMITH Jewelry xx. 172 This headgear is called a ferronière. 1960 H. HAYWARD Antique Coll. 117/1 Ferronière, a necklace worn as an ornament, encircling the head with a gemstone in its centre.

Bonglas

Observed.

[a. F. bonne-grace ‘th’ vppermost flap of the down-hanging taile of a French-hood (whence belike our Boon-grace)’ Cotgr.; f. bonne good, grace grace.]

1. A sunshade or curtain formerly worn on the front of a lady’s bonnet or hat to protect the complexion from the sun; parasol (cf. quot. 1617; the latter may thus fall under 2.)

1530 PALSGR. 907 Grace of the bones, le moufflet. Chapter 1533 is in Hazel. Dosser. I. 203 The bongrace she wears, with her French hood, when she is always out in the sun. 1595 R. WILSON The Hawker’s Prophet. Bij, rounded corners and bungraces. 1604 DEKKER King’s Entert. 311 The purpose of this boon-grace hee is to keep his face from the heat. Chapter 1617 III, IV, I. 170 Shades of French velvet, to protect them from the Sunne, which our gentle women of antiquity borrowed from the French, and called them Bonegraces, are quite absent from us now. 1636 Davinan Plato. lovers week. (1673) 411 If she’s old enough to wear Bongrace.

As shown in the picture. 1609 HEYWOOD UK. Civilization of Troy VI. 137 The woods through which the lake flows make his bow a bounty from the sun.

2. A wide-brimmed hat suitable for covering the face. arch. or observations.

1606 Sutton, Netherlands. 75 wide brim hat [marg. or Bond-grace = petasatus] on his head. 1638 Song Costumes (1849) 140 The straw hat is no longer a girdle, covering the bright sun. 1719 D’URFEY PILLS (1872) IV. 107 Her Bongrace of wended Straw. 1815 SCOTT Guy M. iii, an old hat called bon-grace.

3. ‘Junk fender; used to fly over obstacles from the side or bow of the boat. Smyth Sailor’s Word-bk.

Hook

Observed. except. history.

[a. OF. huque, heuque a kind of cape with a hood; in med.L. huca (13th c. in Du Cange), MDu. hûke, hôike, heuke, Du. huik, MLG. hoike, LG. hoike, heuke, heike, hokke, hök, E.Fris. heike, heik’, haike, hoike. Ulterior origin obscure. See also HAIK1.]

A hooded cloak or cape; ‘a tunic or cloak worn by women and later by men; subsequently also applied to the tight dress (Fairholt Costume) worn by both men and women.

1415 in the Nicholas test. Vetust. I.187、I will that all my hopolands [and] Huykes are barren and distributed among servants. 1418 EE Wills (1882) 37 There is also a Hewk of grene separated from the other melly. Chapter 1423 I Kingis Q. xlix, An huke sche had vpon hir tissew quhite. c1440 [see HAIK n.1]. a1529 SKELTON E. Rummyng 56 Her Lyncole grene hucker. 1530 PALSGR. 231/1 Hewke A lady’s dress, surquayne, froc. Ditto. 233/1 Hooker. 1616 BULLOKAR, Huke, a Dutch garment covering the head, face and body. a1626 Bacon New Atlantic (1627) 24 An emissary, living in Huke, a rich family. a1657 LOVELACE Poems (1864) 210 Like a dame in the land of Luyck, he wears his eternal huyck. 1694 Lady Dunton’s Dictionary. (N.), the German virgin… wears a straight or plain dress, which in some places they call a huk. 1834 JR PLANCHÉ UK. Clothing 181. 1852 CM YONGE Cameos (1877) II. XXXVI. 370 When not wearing armor, she wears a huque or close-fitting robe.

b. Applies to Arabic. haïk: see HAIK2.

1630 J. TAYLOR (Water P.) Week. (N.), the richer variety [of women] doe wear a hicke, which is a piece of cloth or coated cord with stuffing, the upper part of which is gathered and seeded together in the form of an English pot lid with a tassel on top. 1660 F. BROOKE tr. LeBron’s trip. 269 ​​(Cairo) them [ladies] Everything is like being masked and covered by Huke with his face covered.

Hence huke v. trans., to cover with or as with a huke; veil, cloak.

1613 H. KING Halfpenny. Wit (edit 3) Ded. (N.), I’ll…sprinkle some light veil of spotless goodwill over it to conceal and conceal it from public disgrace.

love lock

[f. LOVE n.1 + LOCK n.1]

A particular form of curl worn by courtiers during the Elizabethan and Jacobean eras; later, any curl or hair having an odd or striking character.

Chapter 1592 II. 43 Will you haue..your loude-locke which a silky twist, or shaggie to fal on your shoulders? 1628 PRYNNE (title) Vnlovelinese ~ lockes of love. 1840 Mariette Poor Jack, Love Rocks, as sailors called the curls they wore at the temples. 1894 A. GRIFFITHS Prison Ho Secret. two. 4. 2. 63 Bandoline, which she used to make love locks to adorn her forehead and temples.

transfer. 1886 MAXWELL GRAY Silence Dean Maitland I. i. 12 [cart-] Love locks hang from the horse’s mane.

fountain

[Fr. fontange, f. Fontanges the territorial title of a mistress of Louis XIV.]

A high headdress worn in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

1689 SHADWELL Bury F. 11 Ladies, what are you missing? Exquisite mazarine hoods, Fontanges, belts. 1711 ADDISON Spect. No. 98 1 These vintage Fontanges have an Ell raised overhead. 1883 FG Stephens Catalonia. Print UK. mu. IV. 282 An ugly old one-eyed woman in a fountain.

bigin

[a. F. béguin child’s cap. See BEGUINE, note.]

1. Children’s hat.

1530 PALSGR. 198/1 Byggen for a chyldes heed, beguyne. Chapter 1532 Tyndale Weeks. 577/2. Chapter 1639 Battle Four. ii, do you want me to transform my hat into a double hat and a big hat? Connoisseur No. 80 of 1755 (1774) III. 71 Such a large number of clouts, caps..biggens..as will build a Lying-in hospital. 1819 SCOTT Ivanhoe xxviii My brain has been a mess since the first biggin went around my head.

Cadogan

[Said to be from the name of the 1st Earl Cadogan (died 1726). See Littré, and N. & Q. 7th Ser. IV. 467, 492.]

A way to tie your hair in a knot at the back of your head.

c1780 B’NESS D’OBERKIRCH memory. (1852) II. ix, presented by the Duchess of Bourbon at the court of Montbéliard..[the fashion] cadogans, so far only gentlemen wear.

puppet

[a. F. toupet (tup ) tuft of hair, esp. over the forehead, deriv. (in form dim.) of OF. toup, top, tup, tuft of hair, foliage, etc.; ad. *LG. topp- = OHG. zopf top, tuft, summit; cf. OFris. top tuft, top, ONorse toppr top, tuft, lock of hair: see TOP n.1]

1. = wig.

1729 Political Art 10 Do we think modern words are eternal? Toupet, Tompion, Cosins and Colmar will later be called by some common man a wig, a watch, a pair of props, a fan. 1818 SCOTT Rob Roy vi, These violins, Every gentleman with a puppet thinks it is his duty to recite to an unfortunate girl. 1863 Conn. mag. seven. 395 Wigs are dangerous unless confessed. Puppets can easily escape detection.

b. Transfer. = wig b. Observation.

Chapter 1728 Masques Epil. He wants defense from you. 1748 Richardson Clarissa Weeks. 1883 Seven. 495 A pair of brocade or belted wigs…sour, half-turned faces.

2. The forehead (observation) of a horse or other animal; a thick head of hair (in quot., a negro).

1797 Sports Magazine. X. 295 The Tuft or Toupet, the part of the mane between the ears. 1834 SOUTHEY DOCTOR iii. (1862) 5 Some Congolese residents made a secret fob on their woolen wigs.

3. attrib., such as toupet-coxcomb, -man, -wig; toupet-titmouse, crested tit.

1731 Fielding Defense. husband. I.ix, all I encountered was a bunch of wig dudes who put their brains on their wigs. 1748 Richardson Clarissa (1811) VII. VI. 35 Not just puppets; but all manly. a1784 Pennant Zoo. (1785) II. 423 tits. Toupet.. The feathers on the head are very long, and it occasionally erects a pointed top, like a toupet. 1884 E. YATES Rec. & experts. two. 238 Well-placed wigs.

Hence the toupeted nonce-wd. ( tu ptd, tu pe d) a., wearing a wig.

1903 Smart Set IX. 53/2 We went to dinner with the wig-wearing colonels.

Kevin Huller

Observed.

[f. the name of the Austrian general, Andr. von Khevenhüller (1683-1744).]

One. Attributes. Tall cock for wide-brimmed hats worn in the mid-18th century. (cf. Fairholt Costume in Eng. (1860) 299); hence also hats. b. Absolutely. a cock in this form; a hat cocked in this way.

1746 Great Britain. mag. 309 A lacy hat clipped into what our Playboy Academy calls the Kevenhuller Cock. 1750 Pompey Litt, Coventry. two. IV. (1785) 58/1 Jockey boots, Khevenhullar cap and riding whip. 1753 Commission of Common Sense (Fairholt I. 377) Is the Dettingen cock not forgotten? Has the noble Kevin Hoole lost heart? 1762 London. time. 11. The Planchè, the hat now worn averages 6 inches and a three-fifths wide brim, cocked between the Quaker and Kevin Huller.

Nivenova

Boo now.

[Dormeuse

[Fr.; fem. of dormeur sleeper, applied to articles convenient for sleeping, f. dormir to sleep.]

1. Hood or nightcap. Observed.

1734 Mrs. DELANY Life & Corr. (1861) I. 479, I have sent you a sleeping patron. 1753 let. Mrs. Deweys in Life & Corr. 260 She hasn’t got her dormouse yet.

2. A station wagon suitable for sleeping.

1808 M. WILMOT Jrnl. August 16th (1934) 363 We ..set off at Dormeuse, 4 horses abreast, 2 horses in front. 1825 Visca. S. DE REDCLIFFE in SL Poole Life (1888) I. 357 The two dark green carriages you see in Windsor are Dormeuse and Britchka. 1841 LYTTON Nt. &Morning. (1851) 216 Sleeping Rabbit and the four drove to the entrance of the inn to change horses.

3. A sofa or bench.

1865 OUIDA Strathmore I. vi. 94 (Stanf.) He lies in his bed before the fire.

Fred Belinski

http://www.VillageHatShop.com

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