An Old F-14 Is Worth More Than A New F-35 Utilizing Nitrous Oxide to Boost Your Supercharger Performance

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Utilizing Nitrous Oxide to Boost Your Supercharger Performance

There comes a point in your power buildup where you might consider adding nitrous oxide to your supercharged car. This usually happens in conjunction with reaching a certain level of performance, which means increased investment and less return on the supercharger. For example, my car comes with a 5th generation Eaton MP45 supercharger from the factory. The rated flow of this supercharger is limited to around 230hp, so no matter how I bolt on the engine for upgrades, my peak horsepower will never exceed the 230hp limit because that’s where the supercharger becomes the bottleneck of my system.

As we discussed in our previous article, there is still the option of porting the factory supercharger for a 10% to 15% capacity gain (in this case it would be another 23 to 35 horsepower). There is also the option to retrofit a larger supercharger, such as the Eaton M62, for a potential of up to 300+ horsepower, depending on the final choice of supercharger.

This retrofit path (porting or replacing the stock supercharger) can prove complex and expensive, especially if the supercharger is integrated into the intake manifold (and possibly the air-to-water cooler), which many stock This is the case with supercharged cars.

A possible solution to this situation is to use nitrous oxide injection to supplement the power delivery while racing, and be happy with a reliable low-power car when the nitrous is off and we’re not racing.

Nitrous oxide (N2O) is a powerful motivator for two reasons:

1- On a horsepower-per-dollar basis, the Nitrous is cheap, especially since we’re already supercharged, so only use it on the rare occasions we actually hit the road.

2- Nitrous Oxide is a great “cooler” as it comes out of the bottle at minus 127*F and is capable of cooling the entire charge air charge mixture over 100*F, according to enthusiasts Report that this is the additional temperature drop over and above the effect of any intercooler you have installed. This actually makes nitrous a good choice for cars with superchargers already maxed out, running at peak revs and producing very high outlet temperatures. The nitrous oxide injection is effective in increasing the thermal efficiency of the supercharger at maximum pressure and gives us a nice, cool and dense mixture.

3- Nitrous oxide fuel delivery is fairly simple to set up and adjust, especially on newer cars with return fuel systems, or hard-to-hack computers that make upgrading (and properly tuning) larger supercharger settings difficult . Nitrous oxide fuel delivery can be set completely independently of the OEM ECU and fuel system, thus making nitrogen a possible application for German cars with stubborn computers.

4- It’s a racing technique… most cars seem to perform better in the winter because the air is cooler, the horsepower is higher, the track is cold but ready for traction and will warm up enough at night to allow traction and allow people to take advantage of the cold dense air to post their best time of year. As the weather warms, traction increases because the asphalt is warm and sticky, but horsepower decreases due to the warmer, less dense air. Often racers will find their car’s quarter mile performance is as much as half a second different between summer tunes and winter tunes, especially if you’re using supercharger or turbo compression (and further heating ) when entering the air.

Racers have found that the solution to track consistency is to combine nitrous oxide (good for summer) with forced induction (superchargers and turbos) for winter. During the summer, outside temperatures are high, so the nitrous tank pressure is kept high above 1100 psi. This allows for substantial nitrous flow at sustained pressure (even without a bottle warmer), which provides excellent summer performance for nitrous-assisted cars. In winter, the outside temperature drops significantly, the nitrogen in the bottle shrinks, and the pressure in the bottle drops, followed by a decrease in the nitrogen flow rate, and the performance of the nitrogen-assisted scooter is even worse in winter.

It’s the exact opposite with supercharged cars, which compress cool, high-density air to generate a lot of horsepower in the winter, but poor horsepower in the heat of the summer. When you combine these two power adders, you get a very smooth and consistent horsepower output all year round because the supercharger shines when the nitrous is weaker and the nitrous is stronger when the supercharger is weaker Lights up in low hours, so together they provide a consistent power output year-round.

Precautions:

Now we have to take into account that nitrous oxide is an oxidizing agent so not only does it increase the amount of air and fuel combusted in the cylinder but it also creates a faster moving flame front due to the oxidizing properties of nitrous oxide . That means extra timing retard, high-octane fuel, and possibly cooler spark plugs to run the spray on a supercharged car. Plus, a 100-horsepower shot on a supercharged Camaro can very easily put down over 120 rear-wheel horsepower for extra power thanks to its cooling effect. This means that the “out of the box” injection of the nitrous kit may not work for a supercharged car, you’ll have to make sure to monitor and possibly increase fuel injection to match your car’s final horsepower figures). Last but not least, if you’re running a supercharged car with 500 hp that injects an extra 120 hp of nitrous oxide, then you have to make sure your fuel delivery (fuel pump and fuel lines) delivers The total amount of fuel required provides 620 horsepower.

Application scenario:

1- You have a car like mine, a 2005 C230 kompressor with a 230hp limited Eaton MP45. The ECU in the car is a Siemens ECU, few people know how to tune it, the fuel system has a no return setting and an in-tank fuel pressure regulator. With this setup all forms of dry nitrous injection are impossible as we can neither compensate the fuel by flashing the factory ECU nor increase the fuel pressure during nitrous injection as the fuel pressure regulator is not close to. ..

Recommended kit:

A wet nitrogen injection kit that injects fuel and nitrous oxide from the nozzle.

Injection site:

It goes through the supercharger, through the intercooler, and into the car’s intake manifold.

Maximum recommended injection:

25% of the original total power figure, which in our example corresponds to about 50 horsepower for a nitrous jet.

Expected final horsepower:

60 to 65 wheel horsepower, and maybe about 130 foot-pounds of extra torque!

2- Your car has an accessible fuel pressure regulator, or an ECU that can set re-flashing for nitrous oxide or “dual-tune”. In this case, a dry nitrous kit is recommended for two reasons:

First: dry kits are safer on supercharged cars (as long as the fuel delivered through the injectors or the elevated fuel pressure is sufficient) because they reduce the chance of intake manifold flashback due to dry fuel sex.

Second: dry nitro injection doesn’t contain fuel, so we don’t have to worry about fuel getting out of suspension from the injected air. This means we no longer need to spray the nitrous before the intake manifold, we now have the option to move the injection point farther back. Spraying the nitrous before the intercooler after the supercharger gives the nitrous stream more time and more contact with the compressed air coming out of the supercharger, resulting in more cooling and further horsepower gains.

Recommended kit:

A dry nitrogen sparge kit that sprays only nitrous oxide from the nozzle.

Injection site:

After the supercharger, before or after the intercooler, not necessarily right at the intake manifold of the car.

Maximum recommended injection:

At 25% of the original total power figure, that equates to about 50 horsepower for a nitrous jet.

Expected final horsepower:

70-75 wheel horsepower and about 130 foot-pounds of extra torque!

3- Your car has an accessible fuel pressure regulator, or an ECU that can flash for nitrous oxide, or a “dual tune” setup. You also want to get as much horsepower out of your nitrous as possible…

In this case, it is recommended to use a dry nitrous acid kit injection prior to the booster. As we mentioned in our article on twin charging (combining a turbocharger with a supercharger for increased performance), when two “chargers” are connected in series, one charger powers the next When the charger is powered, the two pressure ratios of the charger are combined because the second charger compressed air is already compressed by the first. For example, two turbochargers set to a pressure ratio of 1.5 (or 7 psi boost), running in sequential mode would result in a final pressure ratio of 2.25 bar (or 18 psi boost), which is 14 psi more than the “expected” ie The sum of the two boost levels.

Likewise, injecting nitrous oxide before the booster can deliver already compressed air. This is real weather, we’re talking about nitrite being compressed because it has twice the oxygen concentration of normal air, or we’re talking about nitrite cooling and compressing the incoming air. The final amount of compression observed at the inlet of the supercharger will vary depending on the ratio of incoming air to nitrogen injection and can result in an increase in boost of 0.5 to 2.5 psi!

This boost is on top of the power increase from nitrous oxide injection, so it can add an extra 5 to 25 horsepower.

Recommended kit:

A dry nitrogen sparge kit that sprays only nitrous oxide from the nozzle.

Injection site:

Before the supercharger inlet.

Maximum recommended injection:

At 25% of the original total power figure, that equates to about 50 horsepower for a nitrous jet.

Expected final horsepower:

75-100 wheel horsepower and about 160 foot-pounds of extra torque!

Things to avoid:

1- Wherever you set up your nitrous injection, make sure you don’t inject nitrous into your MAS air flow sensor or intake air temperature sensor. These temperature-related sensors tell the ECU to advance the timing in cooler conditions. As we mentioned before, nitrite is an oxidizer which increases the speed at which the combustion event travels, so the ignition timing needs to be maintained (if not retarded) compared to a boost only setup. Avoid spraying on these temperature sensitive sensors to prevent unexpected timing advances.

2- Avoid spraying wet kit (fuel) in front of the supercharger as wet fuel mist will damage the supercharger rotor and strip its coating.

3- Make sure to check the air/fuel ratio for the nitrous, don’t stick with the kit’s “out of the box” air/fuel settings. For example, an extra 2.5 psi in your intake may or may not be compensated by your stock ECU, so depending on how the ECU reacts, you will have to adjust the fuel injection on the nitrous kit.

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